After another class at the university, I ate some delicious food thanks to the hostel staff, then hopped in a car with Shehzad sahib with his son and Naimatullah sahib’s nephew Sayed Lakho, whose a talented artist as well. Thanks to Mangi sahib, who arranged this trip at my request, I had the best company possible. Shehzad sahib and his son are both deeply connected to the personal stories and respect of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, the sufi saint and various other respected people in the area. People all over the sub continent and around the world have heard the famous song on Jhule Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, and here, I was finally going to visit his darga in Sewan, Sindh.
Along the way we passed farmland and arid desert landscapes with pockets of mud homes, livestock and people living, I imagine, quite close to the way they have for hundreds of years. The homes are beautifully made with mud walls and thatched roofs. There’s a sort of romantic quality to it all, when you look at the beautiful fields, homes and kids playing, while men and women work. It’s kind of amazing to see it all. At the same time, it’s really heart breaking to see these same people struggling to survive, without basic facilities or education. There is a beauty in what is old and traditional, but not when people have no choice but to live on meager means and subsist on so very little. These are not people without a government, just a people without one that cares.
The driving on this two lane highway is insane. People are constantly passing each other by driving into the opposing lane. Moving away from the city, there is a great deal of beauty in each unique landscape.We stopped by one beautiful dargah along the way with golden domes and intricate glass inlaid interiors. Though I have seen several similar dargahs in Punjab, each one has something unique and beautiful in its design and decoration.
There are caves with fabled paths to Iran, through to Iraq where legends says that those whose belief was truly strong would crawl through tight packed rocks to reach the other side. We had some tea at the entrance to this place.
The sun was setting as we reach Sewan, to pay a visit to Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, a sufi saint who fought for the rights of the local people against an abusive ruler. This dargah is famous for its dhamal (an ecstatic sufi dance). The faithful, and less faithful flock to this beautiful shrine which I heard has benefit from a massive artistic overhaul, with beautiful brand new tile work. The space is beautiful, as is the music. There are all kinds of people. Those desperate for a prayer on their behalf because God seems to have forgotten them. Others are deeply devoted to Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, while others prey upon those in need.
Lal Shahbaz Qalandar Dhamal, Sewan, Sindh, Pakistan from Adnan Hussain on Vimeo.
The dhamaal itself is something to see. You squeeze through a mass of bodies in the center of the main open area. Drums are beating, and men dance ecstatically to one side and women on the other. Apparently, some of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar’s first devotees were the “wild” women of the area. It is interesting to see people on their knees, waving their hair around, or dancing with fervor. It is a chaotic scene, but there is also something peaceful when you squeeze through to other side and find a spot to sit and take it in. Kids recite entreaties for alms, wishing spiritual rewards for you and yours. Some kids try to tie a little string bracelet on your wrists. While these things can be annoying, it’s also part of the acceptance of all people in this dargah. The floors are not particularly clean, though they are being swept constantly. The tile work is beautiful and the sound of music and the variety of people around is something powerful.
Afterwards, we walked through the market to another dargah, that of one of Lal Shahbaz’s most devoted mureeds (students). It was a lot more calm. We looked at the beautiful glass work in the ceiling, then sat down to enjoy a lone musician in the courtyard, playing an ektara. This space was a lot more calm and peaceful. I recorded a bit of his devotional music. At one point the electricity went out. Everything went dark, but he kept playing and I looked up at the stars and moon. That was perhaps the most beautiful part of the whole evening.
My friends who brought me there were equally appreciative and moved by all that we did and saw, which made me feel good. It’s no fun to drag someone to these things when they really have no interest. Shehzad sahib and his son share many interesting stories about these respected elders, that made it all that much rich of an experience. We drove back on the same treacherous way we had come. Traffic is crazy, as on coming trucks and cars veer back into their lanes at the last moment, to inch ahead of one another. We made it back somehow.
Sewan Fakir from Adnan Hussain on Vimeo.