3/11/15 3/11/15

NCA and Jinnah Bagh

Jinnah Bagh

More teaching at NCA and updating blog posts. I try to write the text for these posts even when I do not have internet access. Then when I do get access, I upload several posts at a time and and set them to post one a day. It takes a bunch of steps to sort it all out, but since I do not always have internet access, it allows me to try and keep a steady stream of updates coming through. Here are a few shots from around NCA campus.

After class, I ended up at Jinnah Bagh. I remember being part of a concert here back in high school. We were the kid band that the other bands in the underground rock scene at the time gave a chance to come up and do a few songs.

3/9/15 3/9/15

Rest

This whole travel business has taken its toll on me. The weather extremes, the odd places and just the overall challenges of doing things. The water is dirty, the electricity is always going out and I worked at NCA in the morning, taught a class in the afternoon,and then slept for about 10-11 hours at the hostel. I didn't take any pictures of the day.Along the way, I try to create other relevant projects, and generally make myself useful by teaching. Today, I just finished editing a video on my friends from Phool Patti in Karachi. Communication is one of the key gifts I can share with these artists. I've been working on it bit by bit for weeks now. I'll upload it later in the week once my Vimeo account limit resets.I've done a lot of fun and interesting things in these grueling few weeks. Some contacts are coming in, and it looks like I will get to meet some puppeteers soon. That's it. That's the best I can do right now.

3/9/15 3/9/15

Alhamra

Suffi sahib was feeling a bit better when he picked me up in the morning. We went to college, and he was teaching a class. I did some follow up research to get info on different organizations that could help me with my puppet search.

After Suffi’s class, I head out, suggesting that he should rest. Food poisoning takes a horrible toll on you. I went over to one of my favorite bookshops, Sang-e-Meel. They publish many amazing books on Lahore, as well as several Punjabi short stories, plays and novels. I take forever looking at stuff in stores like that. You never know what you will find. I found a followup book to a book on stories of Lahore that I picked up last time, so I bought that. I still have books I have not finished reading from my last trip, so I didn’t get anything else, but it is still great to see what new subjects there are books about. I visited a few other books stores and a gallery afterwards.I decided to walk from there, all the way on Mall Road, to Alhamra. I encountered a protest of some kind along the way, but it seemed peaceful enough. I steered more or less clear just in case. There was a nice exhibition of paintings up in the Alhamra gallery. I took some photos of some of the pieces that really stood out to me.I learned about a weekly puppet show they have there and got the number for the leader of the group. I sat in the courtyard and made a whole bunch of calls, following up on leads from the past couple of days.I walked all the way back, exploring and getting a little lost. I went through the Suffow wala Cholk (Pages Crossing) so called for all the publishers shops there, though I feel like there are fewer each time. I took my time looking through them and even grabbed a delicious meal. I didn’t end up picking up any more books, but I did think about it a few times. I just don’t need anything. There are a few translations I would like to pickup of books from other parts of the country to get a feel for some of the other cultures and the writings in them, but that is about it. This was more for the sake of seeing what stuff had come out. I feel like there are more illustrated children’s books actually illustrated in Pakistan than I have seen in the past, which is really cool.I made my way back, pretty tired from walking. The rain messed up my internet and took out most of the lights in my room yesterday. A few people came to take a look, but we’ll have to wait for the real electrician to figure this one out. It’s not too bad though. I have my usb internet, and the circuit that the heater and computer are plugged into both work.

3/8/15 3/8/15

Walking around Lahore on a Sunday

Suffi sahib got hit by a bad case of food poisoning. He called to let me know in the morning and I felt bad for him. I’ve been there and I could hear the suffering in his voice. I wished him a speedy recovery and told him to rest, poor guy. I wish I could have done more. Luckily, he is with his family.

a winning combination (Baba Bulleh Shah Kulfi)

I did some work in the hostel room, then walked outside. I walked around, and saw lots of people playing cricket matches all over. Pakistan beat South Africa the day before. Mall Road is very busy all week, but on Sunday morning, most things are closed and things are very calm. People were coming out of the many churches all around. I made my way to a spot on Mall Road where they have used book sellers on sundays. You can find all sorts of interesting, out of print books there. I walked up and down the lane, looking through stacks of dusty books. I ended up just picking up one children’s book that had some nice watercolor illustrations, for a mere Rs. 20.

Afterwords, I head over to see my friend Imran Siddique. He is a man of theatre, photography and one who really enjoys life with all its challenges. While many people I have met are doing excellent things, several have a deeply negative outlook on things, which is understandable, but overwhelming when it goes on for hours on end. Imran is very different in this regard. He faces huge challenges in all that he does as well, but sitting and spending time with him was really refreshing.We, ok he, made some chicken, rice and vegetables (I just chopped a few veggies). It was really fun to catch up and learn about some of the exciting things he has been up to. It started raining during my visit and the view from his open apartment was beautiful. He was getting ready for the wedding of two friends to each other, and it was sweet to see how happy he was for them. It’s a warm, contagious kind of feeling.

I left his place and walked around some more, as he had suggested taking a right turn, then a left then keep repeating until you are close to home and ask for directions for an interesting walk. He was right about his neighborhood being a fascinating place. It was wet and dark, but there was a real beauty to the lanes of delicious, open food shops. I could smell fresh naan and all those great meat dishes. I wasn’t really hungry, but it was fun to just walk and see what I saw. I didn’t even end up needing to ask for directions. I happened to walk back to a street I knew and made my way back to the hostel from there.

Once I walked in, I greeted the security and staff. Asim Hussain and Ajmal are two of the people there. Ajmal has asked me to sit and have some tea a couple of times, so I took him up on his offer that night. People are so gracious. I enjoyed a cup of chai and learned a bit about each of them, but more from their conversations with each other than with me.

It was nice to sit for a bit, but I was pretty tired, so I thanked them and head inside as Ajmal’s shift ended. I had planned to go see puppets at the Rafi Peer Theater, but decided not to deal with the buses in the rain.

3/7/15 3/7/15

Tollinton to THAAP

We spent the morning with the class, encouraging them to draw their ideas and develop them more coherently. Ideas are great, but with out execution they don’t amount to much. I look forward to seeing what they come up with in each session. I also happened upon a little thesis booklet form 2010 in the lab. I saw my students from 2010 with their thesis projects, which was fun.

After class, we walked a block over to Tollinton, which was hosting a handicrafts fair. I learned about several interesting projects, including an Ajrak (block printing) project that I did not get a chance to visit in Bhit Shah.Suffi sahib and I visited a couple of bookshops afterwards. I had heard the terrible news that Ferozson’s Book Store had burned down in an electrical fire. Thankfully, they have a small shop in part of their original shop, which is an institution. It looks like they are rebuilding the damaged portion and I hope to see it all come back some day. Part of each trip here is spent scouring for interesting books on art, literature etc at all these different publishers’ book stores.

Next we head to Gulberg for a THAAP event. There were some really cool paper dolls on the way in, from Multan. The event was focused on a group of people here in Punjab, referred to as Jhanglis. It was an interesting talk with a lot of people who are heavily involved in writing and preserving culture, including Mubarak Ali of whom I have several books, Mushtaq Soofi of Sachal Orchestra fame and many more. I enjoyed the talk by Dr. Saeed Bhutta and the discussion that followed. I got a bit of help in asking about regarding traditional puppets, and was given several possible leads. I really appreciate Suffi sahib going to such lengths to try and bring me to places he can think of where I might find leads to puppeteers.

3/6/15 3/6/15

Horse and Cattle Show Lahore

I woke up, washed my bucket of dirty clothes, then went out to pick up some groceries. The hostel room is great, as it has a fridge on the generator, and all kinds of kitchen stuff. I picked up a few things so I can make breakfast, have some fruit etc. I looked to see if a sherbet shop I used to go to was still there, but I think it my have been replaced by a little dairy shop. That place was the best. Things have changed quite a bit. There is still lots of traffic, but the open sewer has been covered, and the air is so much better than Hyderabad. I really like Hyderabad, but it really needs a lot of sanitation and traffic related work.

Suffi sahib took me to NCA. I enjoyed seeing small posters for different student thesis projects in the multimedia department. I visited Ustad Zafar Iqbal in the music department. He shared some clips of performances with his group in Moracco at the Fez Sufi festival, then invited me to sit in during his class. It was actually really nice to see these students get a chance to work on their music skills.After lunch, I was part of a class where students have just started developing ideas for video game projects. It is fun to see them share their thoughts and to try and be a positive force in helping them to realize their visions.

Later, Suffi and I head out to check out the Horse and Cattle show at Fortress Stadium. It is rather bizarre. It was a huge event, and there were cars all over. Suffi sahib managed to park the car and we walked in the darkness with others to the entrance of the stadium. As part of the once annual (now first time in 11 years) Horse and Cattle show, there was a night performance. We stayed for a while. There was a reenactment of the brutal murder of school children in Peshawar last December in a sort of song to raise a spirit of defiance. It apparently included some siblings of children lost in the attack. These children are incredibly brave, but the jingoistic tone gave me uneasy flashbacks of Zia’s time.Afterwards the Pakistan Rangers put on a display of torch wielding acrobatics which was impressive. The stadium was virtually dark except for the flames of the torches bobbing in the night, which made for an impressive site. It is great to see so many people out, enjoying things as best as they can, despite all that is going on. Then we head out, grabbed some dinner and called it a night.

Horse and Cattle Show Rangers Torch display from Adnan Hussain on Vimeo.

3/5/15 3/5/15

Lahore at last

It was fun to wake up to views of villages on either side of us. At night, it had been pitch dark out. Some areas we passed were covered in trash and filth, most noticeably plastic bags. Other areas were very simple in means, with straw homes or mud walled ones with livestock all around. These were some of the most beautiful spots we passed, in addition to lush green fields of wheat, fruit trees and more.

The train was fine, but my head hurt and I felt pretty out of it and a bit depressed. That made the hours creep by very slowly. There was a lot of complaining about the slowness of the train and corruption of the railway system, from other passengers. I played carom on my phone and read a bit from an Urdu translation of Sindhi folk stories that I picked up in Hyderabad.After what seemed like forever, we reached Lahore. I grabbed by bags and hobbled my way toward the sea of madness that was the exit. Suffi sahib was there with a friend. They helped me squeeze my way out. Suffi sahib had a porter grab one heavy bag which the man put on his head. I was dragging the other bag. The porter kept asking me to put that second bag on his head. I felt like it was too much. He kept insisting, saying that this was his job. He wasn’t saying this to make more money. Of course he was going to be paid as he was carrying a bag. I know people like to say that everyone is dishonest and corrupt here. While that is the reason for such widespread problems, I think it’s important to recognize all the people that are not like that. I gave him the bag after a bit, and we put everything in Suffi’s car and head out.

Lahore changes so much each time I get there. There’s some crazy overhead busway that towers above the streets I remember. The hostel and college walls have been practically doubled in height and there is so much more security now, after the Peshawar school attacks. People often look at news of attacks in Pakistan and look upon the people as some wretched, horrible creatures, that hate their children and are out to kill the world, without seeing how it is the people of Pakistan who suffer the most through all of this. These people are the biggest victims of all the extremists.Even from the train, I saw so many young girls and boys walking to school in the early morning hours, in small muddy towns, trying to get a decent education. My fellow passenger on the train, on his way to Peshawar talked about how much he was trying to invest in the education of his three girls and one boy. It was sweet to listen to how he described each of his children with so much love and how he valued each of their educations above all else. This is a man who did not have the benefit of a formal education, but worked very hard in business all his life. He wants to make sure that his kids get the best that he can provide, like most parents. That’s not to say that there are not narrow minded people, or that there are not very real and serious issues that need addressing, but it is interesting to see the variety of people and their thoughts and how they try to get by.I dropped off my things at the hostel and Suffi sahib took me to the college. He ordered some food, and I felt much better after a meal. Right away he asked some colleagues to ask around about puppeteers, and we all began coming up with names and numbers of possible leads. I spoke to the one puppeteer I have contacted in Multan. I am hoping to get a few more contacts before I head out there for a bit to meet them all. Suffi sahib and I worked on a plan to get that information, and that made me feel a lot better. This is the way that each project I have done here goes. It is never easy, and it would never be possible without the help of so many people.

That night, I met a friend of Suffi’s who is in production. We went to the Jashn-e-Bahar (Spring Celebration) festival at Racecourse. It was really fun. There were all kinds of booths with handicrafts and food. I had some great conversations with people working with artisans for social upliftment. I also got to see some great work from the Naqsh school students and faculty. This art college in the walled city has some fantastic output. I really respect the work these kids and faculty are doing. This is why, I walked over and requested to share some work with the students last time I came. I will see if I can make some time to do that once again. I have heard a lot of people talk about the complete loss of many of the skills I see in these kids. I think it is time to make some connections.We had some amazing Balochi food, and delicious Punjabi makki di rotis. One plain and one sweet. We also tasted a really interesting red colored bread with different kinds of spices and seeds.

At the end of the night, I found no puppets, but I did find a couple from Multan who make paper dolls. I asked if they knew any puppeteers and they mentioned there was one and that they would try to find his phone number.

3/4/15 3/4/15

Leaving Hyderabad

I went to visit Sayed Mangi, who has been graciously looking out for me in every way possible while I have been here. I look forward to returning to work on the music portion of the film, once the puppetry has been completed.Shehzad sahib dropped my at the phattak and put me on a bus to Hyderabad. I reached Abdul Majeed Soomro, who is always busy with his publishing work, dealing with many challenges, and yet he manages to smile and laugh through it all. We had some delicious biryani, and he helped me run a few errands. I dropped off Girnari Jogi Group CDs for each group member at Radio Pakistan, Hyderabad, where Ustad Amb Jogi works. In addition, I picked registered a USB internet device I picked up the day before in Jamshoro. I had to jump through several hoops to register it, and could not have done it without Soomro sahib despite trying to be self sufficient.That evening Soomro sahib helped me get my things together and head out via train for Lahore. The train was fine. My fellow passengers were very friendly. One was a quiet student on his way to transfer to a different college. Another was a WAPDA (power company) employee from Multan on his way home, while the last was a man from a smaller village just past Peshawar, who owned land and a trucking business, also on his way home. We ended up purchasing food on the train. I had picked up a large bottle of water in Hyderabad, but the food options were all covered in flies and filth, so I avoided that. The food on the train was actually quite good. We ended up sharing three meals among us, and even that was more than enough. The train was slow, and as I don’t feel completely well, and am a bit down regarding my lack of progress thus far, it was a difficult.I managed to sleep well enough, and I certainly appreciated the interesting company.

3/3/15 3/3/15

Where to now? Lahooti and the Sketches

I felt a bit better after some rest, but knew I needed to take it easy. I was waiting on word of some puppeteers in Umerkot. They are wanderers, who head out on “sair” without any way of contacting them. This is their way. They could come back in a few days or a couple of weeks. Thankfully, friends are there to check in and can send me photos when they return.I don’t feel like I can wait around here though. While I had done many interesting things during this last month, I have not been able to reach any possible puppeteer collaborators yet. I feel it is time to go to Punjab and investigate the state of puppetry there. I have spoken to one puppeteer on the phone who lives in Multan, and have researched several who are on that side of the country. Now it is matter of obtaining their contact info and meeting them to get to know their work and personalities. It is a very disheartening process. So many people are helping me, and yet, it is still a huge undertaking to try and find something that has all but vanished and then hope that it is in a state that can be salvaged.Since I was in Jamshoro again, I took care of a few things that needed to be done. Met up with Zulfikar Ali Gopang, who was the recording engineer who did such a fantastic job on “Gul” and the Girnari Jogi Group album. It was great to catch up and I really appreciate the willingness to do something positive for these musicians who are the living embodiment of our cultural heritage.

I contacted Saif Samejo of the band the Sketches and Lahooti which are two fantastic projects that I have been following for a while. Samina Panwhar had connected us via facebook a few days ago and Umair Jaffer had mentioned that I should talk to him before my trip as well. He called me back and sent his car to pick me up as he is in Jamshoro, but a but inside of a residential area, which would have been difficult for me to get to. It was really great to connect and learn more about his work. I have already been a fan of the work he is doing, but to meet him and share a bit of my efforts as well was really great. He is creating a beautiful space for music and creativity. I look forward to seeing his future projects.I took it easy that night. Hisam let me crash at his faculty dorm. I got some much needed rest.

3/2/15 3/2/15

Hala to Hyderabad

Group photo with some of the Hala students.

I woke up, got ready and had breakfast as usual. I worked on uploading a few blog posts, and made plans for leaving Hala. During the time I had been at the design school in Hala, I was around those students who lived there. The rest of the students came back today, and I gave a presentation on some of my professional and personal projects in animation. I showed my reel and my short film “Gul”.Screening “Gul” was a lot of fun due to the discussion afterwards. It is always fun to dodge the question of what it is about and encourage viewers to create their own version, based on what they see or feel. As is often the case, some struggle with this, while others allow their imaginations to flow freely and share really interesting insights. Afterwards, we had lunch, and I left with Azam and Noor via bus to Hyderabad. With my bags, the trip was a bit tight as I sat hunched over, with one arm on my bags to keep them from falling on people. Eventually, we reached Hyderabad, and hopped on a rickshaw the rest of the way. Azam and Noor head off to Jamshoro for a class, while I continued to my friend Majeed Soomro sahib’s office.We lugged the bags upstairs, then spent some time hanging out. Hyderabad is a horrible, disgusting city. It doesn’t need to be, but with traffic, pollution, trash and overflowing gutters, it has been made that way. It has much to offer as a city, but it is so filthy and nasty.Soomro sahib and I went out to meet a puppeteer; Mudaser, I had heard about. Unfortunately, he does more the hand puppet style puppets, but was a very friendly person. He got into puppetry inspired by Farooq Qaiser, a legendary figure in Pakistan who brought sarcastic wit and social commentary to the nation with his fantastic work puppets featuring characters like Uncle Sargam.

Afterwards, we went to a dinner thrown by talented artist Nadir Ali Jamili sahib. He hosted a dinner in celebration of his very successful gallery show of sculptural works in Karachi. It was a huge achievement; a culmination of some 15 or 20 years of work. I appreciate being able to join in such a beautiful celebration with so many amazing artists and delicious food. I was very exhausted from the previous week of running around, teaching and researching. I felt like I had pushed myself a bit too much. Nadir Ali Jamali sahib drove Hisam and I back to the faculty dorm in Jamshoro, where I crashed for the night.

3/1/15 3/1/15

Nasarpur

I went to Nasirpur with Azam to see innovations in ceramics work. We hired a car to get there, as it is out in a much more rural area, away from bus routes.

I went to Nasarpur with Azam to see innovations in ceramics work. We hired a car to get there, as it is out in a much more rural area, away from bus routes.

There was a lot of beautiful farm land along the way. Once we got there, they shared their process, innovations, career, goals and life story. In addition Poto sahib took us to a govt. funded site, with better facilities for similar work, that is in disrepair due to disuse of the machinery and what seems like a general disinterest in doing work. I see a lot of this when I travel. People share all the things that are decaying and all but destroyed and lost in this country. These things are real, but it sure is depressing. I also see people making very real efforts to make things better.

It can be difficult to have all the miseries of every aspect of life around you dumped on you each place you go. I need to figure out how to politely end those conversations. I’m here to do something, and while much of what is shared is real, it is less relevant than what each of us is doing on a daily basis. All that negativity makes it very difficult to maintain the energy you need to do things that are difficult. It is certainly challenging to do work in Pakistan, but I am fortunate to be able to spend time with students and artists working to do something positive despite some very formidable odds.

2/28/15 2/28/15

Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai Museum

Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai Museum and Hala crafts

I woke up and did some more blogging. A few of us went to visit the workshops of local ceramics, pottery and ajrak (an ancient and beautiful form of block printing). The work is beautiful, though far undervalued, which makes it difficult for these artists to make a living on their hard work. They were all so generous in sharing their process and allowing me to take photos and ask questions.

This time spent traveling is really enriching for me. I am filled with fresh ideas and new contacts with which to create potential collaborations in the future. These art forms are certainly in danger, but there are some fledgling efforts to raise awareness and support them before it is too late.

After that, we came back and had some lunch. The students have been eager to learn Zbrush, since I told them how cool the software is, so once the electricity came back, we rushed to the computer lab and I went over it for about 45 minutes. After that, it was time for me to meet Ismail Faqir for a trip to the Shah Latif Museum in Bhitshah. Azam and I hopped on a Suzuki daba (pickup), and met him there. The museum is small, but there are beautiful displays depicting several of the folk tales in Latin’s poetry. In addition, there is a large auditorium for concerts during the annual Urs celebration, as well as a new research library in the works. Afterwards, we head back to his place where Ismail Faqir graciously shared many of his experiences and his knowledge with us. He and his family members took us to an event at the Bhitai College, where there was some really interesting Sindhi poetry on contemporary issues (I managed to pick up the main points of several pieces. It was great to see Mangi and Naimat sahib with their kids as well. There was a play on religious tolerance with a strong commentary on current issues in Pakistan. Though it was in Sindhi, I was able to pick out a good portion of what was being said.

We had early morning plans, so we decided to to head back to Hala on a Qing Qi which was blasting some beautiful Sufi music by Abida Parveen. We made it back for dinner, and then walked back to campus.

2/27/15 2/27/15

Hala

I was working on some blog posts in an office at the design school in Hala, when I heard all of these voices saying “Assalam u Alaikum sir!” one after another. I looked up from my laptop and saw a whole bunch of my students from Sindh University. They knew I would be here, and I knew they were coming on a field trip to visit. It was really fun to see them and get a presentation on ceramics and pottery with the amazing faculty here. I got to meet the principal before the students arrived, and he is also very inspiring in the efforts he is making to revive and revitalize the ceramics and pottery industries here by supporting the artisans and working with them to create new innovations using modern technology.

It was fun to see the students and Naimat sahib. Afterwards, I went around Hala a bit with Azam. We walked through some of the old markets and visited a beautiful dargah just down the street. It is a small town, but relatively peaceful compared to Hyderabad, Jamshoro or Karachi. At night, I put together an on the spot workshop for the students who are living on campus on UV mapping and polygon modeling in 3ds max. It was a bit tricky, as the software was 5 years old and did not have a lot of features I have come to rely on in newer versions, but hopefully they were able to gain something.

2/26/15 2/26/15

Bhit Shah

Arriving at Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai's dargah in Bhit Shah at last.

I woke up for the final session of my series of workshops with the third year communications students in the fine arts department at the University of Sindh. I said thanks and goodbye to the hostel staff as we put my luggage in the car. Sheryar sahib brought me to the campus and I rushed over to my class.The students had photographed their storyboarding assignments and most were ready to bring the work into premiere. I spend a lot of time between lectures, sitting down with each student and helping them to apply the lessons to their particular stories. The students are very sweet and appreciative. For the most part, this group was good about completing their assignments, and putting some care into them. They are not the fastest illustrators though, as it can take a whole class to knock out a few sketches. It is a lot of fun to see the students improve over the course of the class.

food for me? and someones birthday. thanks :)

farewell to a sweet group of students. may they achieve all their dreams.

There are many computer problems. From computers filled with viruses, to student computers being slow or incompatible with software. Only about 1/3 of the students had laptops, but they are generous in sharing with one another. We managed to get most of the students’ work on a timeline in premiere. At lunch, the kids threw a party for my, which was combined with a birthday celebration for one of the students. It was very sweet. They brought biryani, sandwiches, cutlets, noodles, custard, french toast etc and we had a nice meal together.The students invited me to join them for many rounds of photos, and made me feel very appreciated. I see a real desire to learn and do something. These young women and men are fun loving and hopeful for the future. They don’t have the option of just picking up and going somewhere else, so they look to working at jobs where they can stretch their creativity and do something.

After class, I had to rush out with my luggage, along with Sadiq who works at the department. We hopped on a rickshaw to the “point”, where buses leave from campus. We hopped on a bus that took us around campus, then down to Hala. The bus stopped right in front of the sign for the College of Design Hala Constitute College of Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design Lahore. We hopped out with our luggage and made our way to a little campus. I met my friend Azam Bugti, who teaches there with a small group of faculty. I got to see some of the beautiful ceramic and pottery art by the talented students. It is a very grassroots level effort, and an excellent example of what can be done with limited resources in the hands of a committed staff and group of students.

A few of us hopped on a qing qi (frankenstiened motorcycle with seats in the back) to visit Bhit Shah, the home of Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai’s dargah (tomb). I have been studying and adapting his poetry for months. To finally come to a place that is so focused on his study and a celebration of his life and works was truly inspiring. The tile work on the tomb is beautiful as is the variety of musicians scattered about. My friend Fatah sahib had connected me to Ismail Faqir, who is a Shah Jo Ragi who practices Shah Latin’s style of singing and plays his instrument, the tambura. We met with him and he took us to the living quarters of Latif, that have been apparently preserved from his time. We sat back there with the Shah Jo Ragis and their beautiful instruments. I asked a few questions regarding context and meaning of a few verses I am adapting, and we had some interesting conversations.

Ismail Faqir was very generous with his time and knowledge. He humbly introduced us to several people, including a faqir, who seemed as much comedian as ascetic. We spent a good deal of time sitting and listening to groups of musicians that were spread about the courtyard of the tomb.Hala back from Adnan Hussain on Vimeo.Afterwards, we watched the thursday night performance of the Shah Jo Ragis after which we caught a freezing cold qing qi ride back to Hala, for a delicious meal at a complete dive of a restaurant, before we head back to the college. There’s a museum that Ismail Faqir sahib mentioned, which I hope to return to soon.

2/25/15 2/25/15

Sewan

Sewan, visiting Lal Shahbaz Qalandar's dargah.

After another class at the university, I ate some delicious food thanks to the hostel staff, then hopped in a car with Shehzad sahib with his son and Naimatullah sahib’s nephew Sayed Lakho, whose a talented artist as well. Thanks to Mangi sahib, who arranged this trip at my request, I had the best company possible. Shehzad sahib and his son are both deeply connected to the personal stories and respect of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, the sufi saint and various other respected people in the area. People all over the sub continent and around the world have heard the famous song on Jhule Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, and here, I was finally going to visit his darga in Sewan, Sindh.

Along the way we passed farmland and arid desert landscapes with pockets of mud homes, livestock and people living, I imagine, quite close to the way they have for hundreds of years. The homes are beautifully made with mud walls and thatched roofs. There’s a sort of romantic quality to it all, when you look at the beautiful fields, homes and kids playing, while men and women work. It’s kind of amazing to see it all. At the same time, it’s really heart breaking to see these same people struggling to survive, without basic facilities or education. There is a beauty in what is old and traditional, but not when people have no choice but to live on meager means and subsist on so very little. These are not people without a government, just a people without one that cares.

The driving on this two lane highway is insane. People are constantly passing each other by driving into the opposing lane. Moving away from the city, there is a great deal of beauty in each unique landscape.We stopped by one beautiful dargah along the way with golden domes and intricate glass inlaid interiors. Though I have seen several similar dargahs in Punjab, each one has something unique and beautiful in its design and decoration.

There are caves with fabled paths to Iran, through to Iraq where legends says that those whose belief was truly strong would crawl through tight packed rocks to reach the other side. We had some tea at the entrance to this place.

The sun was setting as we reach Sewan, to pay a visit to Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, a sufi saint who fought for the rights of the local people against an abusive ruler. This dargah is famous for its dhamal (an ecstatic sufi dance). The faithful, and less faithful flock to this beautiful shrine which I heard has benefit from a massive artistic overhaul, with beautiful brand new tile work. The space is beautiful, as is the music. There are all kinds of people. Those desperate for a prayer on their behalf because God seems to have forgotten them. Others are deeply devoted to Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, while others prey upon those in need.

Lal Shahbaz Qalandar Dhamal, Sewan, Sindh, Pakistan from Adnan Hussain on Vimeo.

The dhamaal itself is something to see. You squeeze through a mass of bodies in the center of the main open area. Drums are beating, and men dance ecstatically to one side and women on the other. Apparently, some of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar’s first devotees were the “wild” women of the area. It is interesting to see people on their knees, waving their hair around, or dancing with fervor. It is a chaotic scene, but there is also something peaceful when you squeeze through to other side and find a spot to sit and take it in. Kids recite entreaties for alms, wishing spiritual rewards for you and yours. Some kids try to tie a little string bracelet on your wrists. While these things can be annoying, it’s also part of the acceptance of all people in this dargah. The floors are not particularly clean, though they are being swept constantly. The tile work is beautiful and the sound of music and the variety of people around is something powerful.

Afterwards, we walked through the market to another dargah, that of one of Lal Shahbaz’s most devoted mureeds (students). It was a lot more calm. We looked at the beautiful glass work in the ceiling, then sat down to enjoy a lone musician in the courtyard, playing an ektara. This space was a lot more calm and peaceful. I recorded a bit of his devotional music. At one point the electricity went out. Everything went dark, but he kept playing and I looked up at the stars and moon. That was perhaps the most beautiful part of the whole evening.

My friends who brought me there were equally appreciative and moved by all that we did and saw, which made me feel good. It’s no fun to drag someone to these things when they really have no interest. Shehzad sahib and his son share many interesting stories about these respected elders, that made it all that much rich of an experience. We drove back on the same treacherous way we had come. Traffic is crazy, as on coming trucks and cars veer back into their lanes at the last moment, to inch ahead of one another. We made it back somehow.

Sewan Fakir from Adnan Hussain on Vimeo.

2/24/15 2/24/15

Teaching, artists and art CEAD

Teaching, artists and art

Another day, another class. I was really happy to see the work that the students brought. They had storyboarded scenes. Each one presented their work, and I helped them with suggestions on how to play with various elements to push their work even further. It was great to hear some of the students chime in with suggestions as well. Teaching is exhausting work if you’re doing it right. I can see the hunger in most of these students to learn and try and do something. Many come from relatively far distances to study there. Most of the class consists of young women. It’s fun to see the excitement and fun nature of their personalities come out as they discuss their ideas and share their drawings.I try to help them create some more variety in their shots. It is challenging to draw things from various angles, and I have been helping them to break down things into simple shapes that are easier to draw from different views. I want to these kids to feel confident and strong in their art. They have ideas, and I don’t want to see them become jaded over time. It’s not really in my hands, but I do what I can to give my best. Nothing would make me happier than for these students to bring their imaginations to life.Later in the day, I visited my friend Shahid from CEAD, which is an art and design college here in Jamshoro. I worked with some students there when I first came out here to record music for my short film “Gul”. Now those students are teaching, having worked at several kinds of jobs and developed their skills. More phone calls were made, and no puppeteers were found in Sindh.

Shaukat sahib's meticulously created current series of paintings. — Shaukat sahib’s meticulously created current series of paintings.

Shaukat sahib’s older paintings show his beautiful traditional paintings skills.

I visited Shaukat at his office at CEAD and got to enjoy several of his paintings and some really good videos of his more conceptual pieces he created at NCA. There is a lot of horrible stuff going on in Pakistan, but the painting scene here is very rich in skill. I can’t wait to see some of that self expression spill into the animation scene and find its way into more of the independent film scene as well. I wish I knew how to sell art. The campus is interesting and has expanded quite a bit since I was here in 2008. I took some photos of the cool sculptures in the courtyard. I hope these pieces will rotate out more often than the ones at NCA.

2/23/15 2/23/15

Thoughts and late night at the University

So many people here have reached out to their contacts in parts of Sindh, bordering Rajasthan to help me in my search for puppeteers, but thus far, all signs point to Punjab. There used to be puppeteers here, but like so much, this place seems to be decaying and dying. Honestly, I have a hard time with the deep levels of helplessness and despair I see in the disintegration of safety, culture and at times it seems humanity all around. I see bits of hope in the efforts of people around me to create institutions that support communities and bring better prospects to students. However, these efforts seem to be dwarfed by the rapid decline of seemingly everything around us. My students don’t seem to be crushed by that sense of helplessness. They know just this reality that they are in, and are working towards a better future in their lives.It’s very depressing that so many puppeteers have gone to unskilled types of work, like selling vegetables or eggs to sustain themselves, and have thus stopped passing down their art and essentially disappeared from contact. Things never go as planned on any of the projects I have created in Pakistan. They have thus far worked out, thanks to the help of many people, but not once have things gone as planned despite my best efforts to plan and prepare. There are always points where I question why I was foolish enough to try something so seemingly out of reach. Yet I know that when I find the right people, the humility and skill I get to work with here makes me quickly forget the pain of endless weeks of fruitless searches.

In the US, I watch the decline of my livelihood in animation and the depressing work conditions that only worsen. Here, I see a lot of untapped resources that are very challenging to reach. There are so many apathetic and ingenuine people that have contributed to this mess, that it takes every bit of my mind to keep inching forward, and working towards realizing the vision for “Risalo”. If I did not feel as strongly as I do about the source material and the value of the art I wish to incorporate, I would never have gone to such lengths to be here.

The photos are from a late night at the Sindh University Arts Department. My faculty friends were printing some brochure pages for a thesis show that is being put together with a great deal of care and effort. This work was being done late at night after busy days of administration and teaching. I’m a little lost, not knowing where I am going at times as most people are speaking Sindhi to each other. Efforts are certainly being made to help me with this project. I could use a few more positive results soon. Let’s hope we can find some puppeteers in Sindh before they vanish.

2/22/15 2/22/15

Hyderabad, Sindh

Hyderabad, Sindh book hunting

Today I decided to head into Hyderabad, which is the nearest big city. I had my usual anda paratha breakfast with chai, then head out to the “phaatak” via rickshaw, from where I hopped on a bus to get into town. It’s interesting to see the neighborhoods, huts and river along the way. There are fishermen in brightly painted boats on the river, just as Shah Latif described in his poetry, the the dam stops the flow of water flowing south, creating puddled stretches of land.I sought out a few places to try and pick up a book and CD set. Traffic is seriously nuts. I mean…there is no right way on these streets. I feel like it has only become worse. People push their way through with their vehicles form all directions, unwilling and really unable due to driving styles here, to let anyone pass. I think that way of thinking exemplifies a lot of the issues here today. Everyone needs to get their inch and they don’t care who they trample to get that momentary benefit, while burning any possible long term gains. This is interesting, because in basic interactions, many people are incredibly kind, but in official settings it is a ruthless place.

I went to a few bookstores without any luck in finding what I was looking for. The music CDs I was looking for were also not available. In figuring that out, I went to a bunch of different places, switching rickshaws to go to Gul Center, the Press Club, Hyder Chowk and the museum. The museum, while run down, had amazing displays showcasing traditional instruments and crafts as well as scenes of different types of artisans at work.

It was a fairly tiring trip. On the way back, I hopped on the outside of a bus to get back to the phaatak. It took a while before enough passengers got off at stops before I could get inside, but it was ok. I got off just past the phaatak and took a chingchi (these are motorcycles lobotomized with a carriage in the back) to the Adabi (literary) Board of Sindh. It was closed. My friend Mangi sahib came and picked me up with his son. We went back to his place, and I was able to check some email etc, hold his third child for a bit and chat. I enjoyed another delicious meal at his home (I’m going to gain some weight on this trip). Afterwards, we dropped by my room. Najeeb sahib joined us with his adorable little daughter and we went to hang out. We enjoyed some snacks at a sort of family club, then head over to hunt for books. They are so kind, that we went around to several bookstores, just to try and find this book. Mangi sahib also called a few friends, and eventually we found a place that has an Urdu translation I was looking for while driving back via a phone contact. We’ll visit that place another day. On the way back I was once again treated to delicious snacks. This time it was kulfi faluda in a cool little clay boat. Even during all of this time we spent together, I would pick up enough of Sindhi conversations that my friends would have over the phone while I was hanging out with them to know that they are calling all kinds of folks to help me find puppeteers in Sindh.

I’m basically making my way north, looking for puppeteers. It is a dying art form, particularly here in Pakistan, with only a handful of practitioners left. I’m trying to find them, with the best people to help me do it. Mangi and Najeeb sahib dropped by my room once again at night. This time I gave Mangi sahib a proper presentation of the animatic for “Risalo” and the thoughts that go with it. He started looking at the introductory pages of the book I have been basing this work on and found names that he knows. Now that he, Najeeb and Ustad Amb Jogi have a clear idea of the project, they will be able to add from their wealth of knowledge and contacts who have much more deep understandings of the material and the music I am attempting to compile in this film.

2/21/15 2/21/15

Teaching at Sindh University

Due to some technical difficulties on my end, I was not able to screen my short film “Gul” during the first workshop session. We had an in depth discussion on the creative process, from the seed of an idea, to visual development, reference gathering and concept refinement and execution. I had spoken about my work for companies, and answered questions on the division of tasks at companies, as well as differences between character animation for gaming and films.

After the usual, and delicious anda paratha (egg and paratha) breakfast at the hostel, I head to the campus. I setup my things and we began our second session with a screening of “Gul” It was fun to show the students how I had recorded music right here in Jamshoro, using Sindhi culture, in a piece that travelled the world. We had a fun discussion on their interpretations of the film. I was very glad to hear the confidence and insights that several students shared. We continued with small presentations by each student, regarding their assignment, which was to create a drawing of a character on the basis of 5 reference images of a feeling and 5 images of a culture or time period. The idea is to share a process by which these students can bring an influx of fresh ideas to any project they work on.

Even the self proclaimed shy students did a great job of sharing their sketches and ideas. Some had several designs, some just one. A few had no reference images, while others had many. Through the discussion, each student was able to understand the value of this process. I emphasized the value of their thoughts and ideas, and the validity of their interpretations.The session would have been 2 hours, but the students were so eager and hungry for learning, that we decided to extend the sessions. We went over how to breakdown and simplify our character designs, and then draw them from the side and in a 3/4 view based on that. It was really fun to see students first struggle and then grasp these concepts and apply them in their work.

beautiful hand made work from near Badin

I love to see the excitement in their eyes, and a genuine desire to express something in their work. With the right dedication, they can do great things. That of course is the real challenge. I always give everything I can to these workshops and end up pretty tired by the end of each session. Mangi sahib picked me up afterwards, and brought me back to the hostel. There was a program going on at Sindhology, regarding climate change. The hostel staff had prepared an amazing feast for delegates. I joined them, at least for food, then we went to Sindhology. I saw some good entries for the painting contest on climate change. There were several interesting stalls. I particularly enjoyed meeting some fantastic artists/artisans. I spent some time talking to them about their work and possible collaborations. They were very friendly and eager to work directly with artists.Afterwords, I went back to the hostel for a bit of rest, then walked over to Najeebullah Rashdi’s place. He was working on a portrait for a friend in oil paint. I sat down and connected to his internet to send out some emails and upload a bunch of blog posts. He showed me more of his excellent paintings, which I ended up posting in yesterday’s blog post. It’s really great to connect to all these artists. His little daughter came to visit throughout the time I was there. She spoke in Sindhi, so I could not understand her words, but it was very cute. She brought a little plastic container with slime in it and poured it in my hands. I pretended to sneeze it out.I shared some of my process and thoughts in my approach to adapting “Risalo”. It was fun to learn about some other musical forms and places around here as well. Afterwards Najeeb sahib and his daughter walked me back to the hostel. She asked her father why I didn’t speak in Sindhi, to which I told her in Punjabi, “Jadon tusi mairai naal Punjabi ij gal karugai, tai mai wi twadai naal Sindhi ij gal karanga (when you speak to me in Punjabi, I’ll speak to you in Sindhi.” She just looked at me a bit puzzled :). I was just kidding around. A lot of people start speaking to me in Sindhi here, but I don’t really understand it, so unfortunately, I have to switch to Urdu. Sindhi sounds beautiful and when people translate bits of poetry by reciting in Sindhi, then Urdu, even the sound of the words and the bits I can pick out are so much more interesting than the sound of the translation, though it is good too. I certainly pick up a lot of fascinating things in conversations with people here. There is a very deep sense of culture and appreciation of it here with the arts folks in Jamshoro. The connection is deeper than I have seen in some other places.At night, Mangi and Najib sahib took me out for some tea. Though the mosquitos were eating me alive as usual, I got to hear some fascinating stories about a guy named Watiya Fakir from Tando Allah Yar, famous for his anecdotes, similar to Mullah Nasruddin, whose stories are famous in large parts of the world. The stories were anecdotes of questioning society in humorous ways. One story went like this. He arrived to a dinner party dressed as a fakir (wandering ascetic) in tattered and dirty clothes. The hosts quickly pushed him out. He returned a second time, dressed in fine clothing. They let him in and he sat down to dinner. He began rubbing the food all over his clothes. When people in shock asked him what he was doing, he said it was the clothes that you invited for dinner, not me.There were several anecdotes in a sense questioning religious leaders in their preachings on God, or just making a humorous statement on it. Mangi sahib’s storytelling was really great. He shared it in Urdu for my benefit, but when he would mention a key phrase in Sindhi, it sounded that much more rich.

2/19/15 2/19/15

Workshop at Sindh University

Meeting artists and eating food in Jamshoro, Pakistan

I started the day by walking down the hill, across the freeway, to a shop to get some clothes washing detergent. I came back and hand washed my clothes. The hostel staff gave me a charpoy to dry them on. The staff are so kind, humble and hospitable.

Mangi sahib took me to the university, and I ran into Hisam, whom I had met while he was studying at CEAD and I was looking for musicians for my short film “Gul”. I did some work with the students at that time. It was good to hear about his artistic development since then. Now he teaches at Sindh University. I also met a sculptor who teaches there named Nadir Ali.I had set up a meeting with Ustad Amb Jogi, my good friend and leader of the Girnari Jogi Group. It was great to see him after several years. We sat down and I went over the animatic for “Risalo”. There are several things I am trying to figure out in terms of achieving the right balance between poetry and music in the film. Amb, being an excellent percussionist who plays with a wide variety of excellent musicians, is just who I need to figure this out. There was certainly a lot to cover, but this is the first time I have presented the whole animatic. His response was really positive. Also in the same office, was an older man, sitting across the room. He was following our discussion. I got to a the part where I discussed some changes I was making to the story of Beejal to put it more in line with what I am trying to communicate and was a bit worried what they would think of the change. They were both very supportive and appreciated why I had made those changes.A short while later, after Ustad Amb Jogi left, I spoke the the older gentleman for a bit. His name is Aslam Azad, and he gave me a book of his poetry. He said that he knew I could not read it as it is in Sindhi, but it has all his info on the back. The book is called Azad Khyal (Free/Independent Thoughts). I was so honored, that even before reading about him on the back of the book, I decided that I would have someone who reads Sindhi read it to me and translate. Once I read about him, I knew I had to do this even more. He has been an editor of newspapers and publications throughout his career and took part in the M.R.D. to restore democracy to Pakistan during Zia’s time. I am constantly amazed at the accomplishments of the people I meet at Sindhology and at Sindh University.Afterwards, I taught the first in a series of workshops at the art department at Sindh University. It was really fun to share my work and process with the students. The seemed eager to learn and we used every minute of time that we possibly could until it was time for them to leave. It was very tiring, but rewarding. I came back to the hostel and grabbed a nice meal prepared by the staff.

beautiful marriage display at Sindhology Museuem

Afterwards I did a bit of editing and resting, before Hisam dropped by and we head out to a themed restaurant called Al Jazeera (which had a village theme), no relation to the channel. The food was great, and it was fun to talk art with Hisam. We visited Fatah sahib afterwards. Between him and Ustad Amb Jogi, if there are puppeteers left in Sindh, we should be able to find them. There are already several leads and it looks like we could make some visits, later next week.

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